The Strand at Bray

The Strand at Bray

Sunday was beach day at Bray in Co Wicklow. Thirty minutes and a few stops on the DART, and you’re there. The beach was lovely, the sun was shining, and the locals were swimming. Mind you…there were many gasps and squeals as they waded into the waves!
I feasted on gelato, walked into town for brunch, and spent a few leisurely hours lying on the sand.
Bray reminds me of home, except the buildings are MUCH older and there’s a carnival in the main drag between the strand and the shops. Revived by sunshine, sea breeze, and shades of continuing blue, I’m ready for another week in this beautiful country.

There seem to be a lot of terriers here. The poor wee fella in the photo above really wanted to jump in and swim with the boys who were jumping off the pier, but he couldn’t find his way across.
And THIS just says it all!
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Irish Pipers at The National Memorial

Irish Pipers at The National Memorial

This morning I was called by the music of two Irish pipers to the gates of Merrion Square Park. Who can resist a bagpiper?


After chatting with a lovely man  (on the right in the photo below), I discovered that a ceremIMG_2689ony was about to commence. He was a Kerry man; a volunteer in the Defence Forces.
In Canada, we celebrate Remembrance Day at the Cenataph on November 11 every year, but in Dublin they meet to remember their fallen soldiers for six Saturdays over July and August. The Sunday closest to July 11 is The National Day of Commemoration.
 
 
IMG_2697Today was the first ceremony and there were six Infantry Battalion, Custume Barracks from Athlone Co. Westmeath and twenty-seven Infantry Battalion, Aiken Barracks from Dundalk, Co. Louth, taking part.
The Defence Forces, Óglaigh na hÉireann, wear a badge with an ancient warrior’s sword belt and a “sunburst” of flames.  The letters FF for Fianna Fáil are in the centre. The Fianna Fáil is an ancient military organization that has defended Ireland since the 3rd Century. Fáil means “destiny” and so these men are Destiny’s Army.
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The sunburst is the traditional battle symbol of the Fianna, and you may remember that Fionn mac Cumhaill (Finn MacCool) led his own Fianna in the mythic Fenian cycle. Fianna Fáil is also the name of the Republican Party here in Ireland. History runs deep in this country.
I thought I’d have to stand behind the ropes, but was invited to sit on the stone bench right by the memorial. Inside this granite pyramid are four bronze figures who stand guard over the eternal flame in memory of fallen soldiers in the Defence Forces. During the ceremony, the flag was lowered to half mast and then raised again at the end. There was a changing of the Inner and Outer Guard. It was a solemn occasion, and when the wreaths were laid and the piper played, tears were shed by some, including me.

This country, with its turbulent history, never ceases to amaze me. The tricolour national flag, first flown during the 1916 Rising, symbolizes “the inclusion and hoped-for union of the people of different traditions on this island.” The green goes back to the 1640s and the orange appeared in 1795 following King William of Orange’s “glorious revolution” . The painting below is an artist’s rendering of the Battle of the Boyne where William changed history in 1689. It’s in the National Gallery, the grey building in the background in the photos above.
The white between them, I assume signifies a peace that came “dropping slowly” as WB Yeats would say; a peace that appears to be here at last.
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The Farm in Dublin

The Farm in Dublin

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I don’t normally blog about food, but I’m travelling, so finding food without gluten and dairy is a challenge in our bread and butter world. Every day is a hunt for something nutritious and tasty that I can manage.
     It began on Tuesday. I pre-ordered Thai chicken curry and rice for my Canadian flight with Air Transat; unfortunately they sent something labelled “Thai chicken curry” that was actually cream chicken stew–blobs floating in cream. I was flying Club, so I expected better. They were quite apologetic and it was definitely not the fault of the flight crew, but the only thing they could find on the plane was a small plastic box of kale salad. Toronto Airport posed yet another challenge. Then, on my International flight, I ended up with just a plain omelet and some fruit. By the time I hit Dublin, after eighteen hours of travel,  I was literally shaking.
     I set out on the hunt and discovered The Farm! This is an amazing restaurant on Dawson Street, which is quite close to Trinity College. The server was lovely. “Ah, you poor thing. We’ll take care of you,” she said, and promptly brought me fresh tasty carrot soup and GF toast. Their menu details the choices for several different diets, so I think that anyone could find something wonderful to eat there (even my vegan friends) and all the ingredients are sourced locally. Great staff, and it’s quiet and casual; an oasis in the heart of chaotic Dublin!
GF = Gluten Free | HP = High Protein | O = High in Omega | LF = Low Saturated Fat | V = Vegetarian | RV = Rich in Vitamins
     Today, after a morning of walking the streets and galleries, I stopped by again. This salad, which is suitable for anyone, was SO good.
Asian Green Salad (virtually fat free) €8.00
Mixed Leaves, Bean Sprouts, Spring Onions, Bamboo Shoots, Pickled Ginger, Peppers, Cucumber, Roasted Chilli, Red Onion, drizzled with Fresh Ginger, Soy and Sesame Oil Dressing (GF option, V, LF, RV)
     Of course, I had a side of chips because, well, I am in Ireland.
     Tomorrow, I’m off to hunt again.
A Sunny Dublin Day

A Sunny Dublin Day

IMG_2561IMG_2581A sunny Dublin day? That may be an oxymoron. I’m not sure.
I am in Dublin researching a new novel about an Iron Age king. Today, my first whole day in this city, I spent hours at the National Museum of Archaeology in the Kingship & Sacrifice exhibit. This is a phenomenal exhibit arranged by Dr. Eamonn Kelly and his team. Above is the perfectly preserved hand of Old Croghan Man. They found eight of his preserved fingernails and were able to fingerprint him after two thousand years! Once a king (300-200BC), he was ritually murdered and his severed remains sunk in a peat bog in County Offaly. It’s thrilling to finally be here and see him. The Celts loved their gold and there’s plenty of that on display. I have yet to explore the rest of this amazing museum.
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On the way back, I stopped at the National Library to find out about research and ended up touring the Yeats exhibit: photographs, journals, video documentaries, and of course, himself reading his brilliant poems. A longtime Yeats lover, I was charmed once again by this romantic politician.
This afternoon, I explored the grounds of Trinity College where I’m staying, and got my own library card for the reading & research room at Dublin City Library. Tomorrow, I can peruse their Irish Collection. I love staying here at Trinity, and recommend it. The oak trees are marvellous, and there is a beautiful little park right beside my building. It’s secure and quiet, despite the hoards of tourists who flock to see the Book of Kells and the Old Library that inspired the library at Hogwarts in Harry Potter. Last night, I even heard an Alt J concert from my bedroom sanctuary. After eighteen hours of travel, I needed to cave, but the music was mellow.

At lunch today, I wandered St. Stephens Green in the warm sunshine. This twenty-two acre park opened in 1880. Everyone was out lounging on the grass around the trails, ponds, and flower gardens.

Finally, I must say that Dublin oozes history. One thing I’ve started noticing are the beautiful Georgian doors. Surely, this one on Pearse Street leads to a blue haven.
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