by Wendy Hawkin | Jul 25, 2017 | Ireland, journal, mythology, travel
If you enjoy the experience of visiting sacred sites, Uisneach (pronounced ish-neck) is one you should not miss. It has all the magic and myth of places like Tara and Newgrange, but it’s off the tourist trail, so you can enjoy a heartwarming trek with a small group. It is in the process of becoming a UNESCO site, so this may not last. The space has a warm and friendly energy, and is staffed by just two (at least the day I went). Justin met me and invited me into the Visitor’s Centre for tea and biscuits. He is an archaeology expert and knows much about this site and others like it in Ireland. He also provided tea and biscuits after the two-hour tour and people had opportunities to converse and ask questions. (The tour begins at 1pm daily–closed Monday and Tuesday.)
Marty was our wonderful storyteller. Here he is explaining how this 10,000-year-old glacial rock is actually the bellybutton of Ireland.
The two-hour tour involves walking (some up) around the hills and pasture lands. We were several families from Europe and North America and the kids kept us entertained by asking the coolest questions. Marty didn’t miss a beat but incorporated their queries into his stories. (Unicorns even made it into the story). He told us tales of the Tuatha De Danaans and their battle with the Fomorians, and the triumph of the bright and shining Sun God, Lugh, who is said to have met his mortal end here in the pool.
This place is Druid HQ so many pagan groups come here for rituals. Local artists have carved the faces of the gods, Lugh and Eriu (Erin=Ireland). Every May 1 on Bealtaine (Be-al-tin-a) Uisneach hosts a Fire Festival that looks amazing. This is now on my list. You can watch a video here.
The God Lugh
One of my favourite stories was about the souterrains used by Iron Age people. A souterrain is a cave structure dug out beneath the ground. Marty gave us a slapstick retelling of his experience crawling down a channel into a souterrain that was as black as night. After getting over his initial terror, he fell asleep in the womb of the mother earth. The hidden entrances were marked by rocks. If another tribe invaded to steal your cattle (cattle were highly valued as status and currency) the tribe would hide them along with their women and children below ground in these darkened caves where they would be protected. This gorgeous Angus bull would have been a prize, I’m sure.
To take a tribe’s women and children diminished their tribe and strengthened yours. Slaves were always needed in this hierarchical culture.
It reminded me of a story I heard many years ago on the Sunshine Coast in British Columbia. The Coast Salish people did something similar when the Haida came down the coast in their war canoes hunting slaves. On top of Mount Daniel (in Pender Harbour) is a beautiful space with a fresh water lake. The women and children would be moved up the mountain where they would be safe and protected from the Haida. I like this idea and wonder how we protect our women and children now?
A Stone Map of Ireland
The same 10,000 year old glacial map depicts a map of Ireland from this angle. You can see the four provinces: Connacht in the west, Ulster in the north, Leinster in the east, and Munster in the south. Mide was in the middle where we stood at Uisneach. In ancient times, ceremonial centres were located like spokes around Uisneach and were joined by log roads over which horses, chariots, wagons, people, and food moved. (This brings to mind that image of Gandolph pulling into the Shire with his wagon full of fireworks.) Marty says that each Sabbat festival was celebrated in a different location. This is fascinating sacred geography and it can still be done.
On Winter Solstice, the sun is aligned with the passage tomb at Newgrange. You need to win a lottery to get inside, but it’s worth a try. You can always just camp out on the grass and soak up the magic.
The Spring and Fall Equinoxes are aligned at the ceremonial complex at Loughcrew.
Bealtaine was celebrated at Uisneach.
Carrowkeel in Co. Sligo aligns with Summer Solstice.
The Mound of the Hostages at the Hill of Tara is aligned with the sun at Samhain (sow-in)
To celebrate the turning of the wheel of the year and the passing of the sun through its annual phases brought stability to an agrarian world that depended on the weather for survival. In fact, in times of weather upheaval, whole tribes could be wiped out or have to relocate. This is something to think about given our current predicament.
Blessings from the Faerie Tree at Uineach!
by Wendy Hawkin | Jul 24, 2017 | healing, Ireland, journal, mythology
I do believe in Faeries. It’s true. And not just because I am named after Wendy Darling in Peter Pan. Or because I write urban fantasy. Faeries or Spirits or Angels (whatever you want to call them) exist beside and around and between us. They see and hear us, and sometimes answer our prayers.
This is a true story.
I arrived at my AirBnB late on Saturday after a full day. I’d driven from Jampa Ling in the north of Co Cavan, down to Uisneach (which is the naval of Ireland and close to Athlone). After touring the site with Marty, the amazing storyteller, I drove on to Navan and finally found my BnB (4+ hours of driving and it was only my second day driving on the left, seated on the right–a tad stressful).
The host was lovely and accommodating and the room looked lovely. But I suffer (and I mean suffer) from multiple chemical sensities/allergies and the house was awash with scented products. I lay in bed all night, taking Benadryl, terrified that I was going to need my epipen. I dozed off around five or six for maybe an hour. I mentioned the problem to him the next morning but there wasn’t much that could be done. The chemicals from scented laundry detergents, fabric softeners, and plug-in air fresheners cannot be magically removed. So, I went off to explore the Hill of Tara wondering what to do. I’d booked three nights there, you see.
Now, Tara is a magical place, the Seat of 142 High Kings of Ireland. The entrance to the Otherworld. The Lia Fail or Stone of Destiny brought to Eiru by the Tuatha de Danaan (the Sidhe) rests here. And beneath the Faerie mounds are carved Neolithic stones with ancient symbols.
I wandered the fields as long as I could feeling horrible. My tongue was swelled and tingling and the antihistamines weren’t alleviating it at all. I was frightened, to tell you the truth–anaphyalaxis is terrifying. It also creates brain fog, so I can’t think straight. This happened to me a few weeks ago and it took days to go away. I was afraid to go back to the BnB, yet I was supposed to stay there again that night and the next. I breathed in the wind and sun, hoping it would magically cleanse me. Tara is largely pasture lands and mounds, a dog-walkers dream, and it’s still run like a farm, so you can wander the grassy vales for hours.
At last, I saw a few people off in a far corner of a field. They were photographing a Faerie Tree.
I took the only scrap of fabric I had in my bag–which happened to be a dark red lens cleaner–and tied it to the branch asking with my all heart for the angels or the spirits of this sacred place to help me with my health…to please just help me feel well. And then I left.
On the way home, I passed a restaurant/motel called Tara House and thought… hmmmm. I turned the car around, went back and inquired about a room. They had a room, but it wasn’t quite right either. You have to understand that once my immune system goes berserk, I react to everything. What a “normal” person might smell as a two, I smell as a TWENTY! On top of all the chemicals, I am allergic to dust and mold. I told the woman what was happening and she said, “Ah you’re suffering. Have you tried Josey’s across the way?” “Where?” I said. “Show me.” And she did.
I left my car there and walked across the road. Josey was out in the driveway. She had a room for two nights. She took me upstairs and showed it to me. Suddenly, I felt like a princess in a faerie tale. She understood all about chemical sensitivity and said she’d cook me an Irish fry-up in the morning that was gluten and dairy free. Oh my! I almost cried. I told her that she was my angel.
I couldn’t believe it. And yet… Manifestation is rapid-fire magic!
I went back, packed up my things, and left a note to explain. And then I came back to Bothar Alainn
Today I am much better. The swelling’s gone down and I was able to explore Newgrange and Knowth…two other places made sacred by the faeries. So, remember, when you need them, the spirits really do come through. But you must believe.
by Wendy Hawkin | Jul 23, 2017 | Ireland, journal, nature, travel
The Golden Way
There are some lovely walks around the Jampa Ling Tibetan Buddhist Centre in Co Cavan. One of my favourite Sacred Web songs is a Tree Chant where the names of trees from around the world are repeated. I found myself singing this as I meandered the forested trail to the lake.
My favourite trees are old deciduous trees. Beech, ash, oak… And they all grow here intermingling with wild ferns, holly, and ivy. It reminds me of Robert Graves’ work in The White Goddess.
One spring I will come to see the bluebells!
Wild Shamrocks!
I did not expect to find wild shamrocks in the woods at Jampa Ling, but there they were, pushing through the ivy and covering the mossy nurse logs. Shamrocks are a type of wood sorrel, belonging to the Oxalis genus.
The old beech tree guards the path to the lake. The sign says: “this ancient tree casts a canopy so dense that no other trees can thrive under it leaving an area as you see free from undergrowth. Nature has created here for us a beautiful quiet place of reflection and contemplation.”
Not long after you reach the lake.
In the field behind the centre I discovered this massive old grandmother Oak, the Druid tree. Ah, she is beautiful. I wanted to climb into her arms and sleep.
by Wendy Hawkin | Jul 23, 2017 | Ireland, journal, nature, travel
Several dogs hang out at Jampa Ling. I am told that the Venerable Pachen Otrul Rinpoche, who is the spiritual director of Jampa Ling, calls them the dog sangha. Ruffus, the border collie cross (wider in the middle and darker) is the neighbour’s dog but appears at the centre every day before morning puja and stays until evening puja is over. His family now call him Buddha Dog.
One day, one of the guests discovered a black and white border collie (longer hair with a white ruff) on the road and thought it was Ruffus. It wasn’t. The dog had been abandoned but came to live at the centre. That is how Pema arrived here.
Ruffus and Pema are the official greeters and walk guests around the centre. Pema, a typical border collie, lies in the grass waiting for a stick to fly and barks at the wheels on my suitcase.
Pickles belongs to Evelyn and is ever so sweet and shy. I love that I can step outside and be immersed in this wonderful dog love!
Rubio, a gorgeous four-year-old golden retriever/lab cross belongs to Fidelma. When I emerged Wednesday morning, Rubio was waiting outside and went for a walk with me to the stupa. Rubio is always ready for cuddles and walks. The healing dogs of the Jampa Ling Sangha.
“May all sentient beings be happy and free of suffering.”
by Wendy Hawkin | Jul 23, 2017 | journal, writing and publishing
About Jampa Ling: Place of Loving Kindness
This past week, I stayed several nights at Jampa Ling Tibetan Buddhist Centre. This is a residential retreat centre created on a glorious 19th Century estate in Co Cavan. It has been operating for twenty-seven years under the spiritual direction of Venerable Panchen Otrul Rinpoche, and with the patronage of the Dalai Lama.
As soon as you arrive, you feel the positive energy of this pastoral land. Buddhist shrines appear as you wander the lawns and gardens, birds sing, the wind breathes, and people come and go. Many folks volunteer their time to work here from gardeners, who sustain an incredible fruit and vegetable garden, WWOOFers, to housekeepers, teachers, and cooks.
The vegetarian food is special. Breakfast is oatmeal, fruit, yogurt, and toast. Lunch, the main meal of the day at 1pm, is always an delicious surprise. So far, I’ve feasted on chana dhal and rice, chick pea stew, baked potatoes and chili, and shepherd’s pie. And always there is a huge bowl of green salad from the organic gardens. The cooks are mindful that I can’t eat wheat and dairy (thank you lovely women) and always provide for me. This is such a blessing! At 6pm, we sit down again for delicious soup, bread, and cheese. Simple, nourishing, beautiful food.
People arrive from many places so fascinating stories are told around the lunch table. Many have taken refuge with Rinpoche, who teaches during the winter months. Rinpoche began training as a monk in Tibet when he was very young. He was ordained in India by the Dalai Lama and continued to study and design educational programs for monasteries. At the request of the Dalai Lama, Rinpoche travelled to the UK for interfaith dialogue and in 1990, he was asked by Irish students of Buddhism to become Spiritual Director of Jampa Ling. He continues to travel and teach.
A special relationship with Mongolia, where Rinpoche and his students engage in charitable work, involves the manufacture and sale of fantastic woollen felt items. I bought some gorgeous slippers. MIM (Made in Mongolia) comes via an NGO, developed to create sustainable work for women, who often head the households. Since the breakup of the Soviet Union, the people struggle with poverty where shanty towns have sprung up in the capital. The NGO also assists with outreach, supports children in their education, and trains people in “skills and finding self”.
Owendoon House was built in the 1850s by George L’Estrange in an Italianate style. This is where meals are provided and meditation takes place in the Shrine Room. Guests stay in Tara House, a renovated barn that also houses the shop and a community room for yoga and meditation. Even if you’re not staying here, but just passing through, you can come by to shop or share a low cost meal of gorgeous healthy food. On the August 1 weekend, the centre is hosting an open house.
At Jampa Ling I participated in an Evening Puja where Tibetan chants to White Tara create an aura of calm, and an extraordinary mindfulness yoga class. But mostly, I’ve enjoyed talking with wonderful people, relaxing, and practicing meditation.
Jampa Ling is a place of loving kindness.
For more information and to book visit Jampa Ling
